It’s an understandable oversight. Situated minutes to the east of Cinque Terre by train, the hard-working port town of La Spezia is routinely overlooked. But it’s an affordable place to overnight if you’re heading to the Cinque Terre, and worthy of a once-over. It’s home to Italy’s largest naval base, the winding streets of the old town are atmospheric and there’s plenty of cosy trattorias showcasing the Ligurian table at its best.
La Spezia’s bustle peaks on 19 March, the feast day of the city’s patron saint, San Giuseppe (St Joseph). Celebrations see a giant market fill the port and surrounding streets, and the naval base (off-limits the rest of the year) opens to the public.